Creating a fragrance is like composing a symphony. And like a symphony, it requires patience and foresight, each note unfolding gradually, building toward a harmonious whole. “When you smell a perfume, you first get the top notes, but it’s only after a few minutes that the heart notes become more pronounced and evident. Then, as the scent lingers, the base notes unfold more fully and can even last for days. The full effect builds over time,” Josephine de Longueville, an olfactory expert explained. This gradual unfolding reflects the artistry of creating something that evolves and deepens with wear, allowing the fragrance to tell its full story. As Josephine painted this dynamic world of scent - it was fascinating to see how much marketers and business leaders can learn from the olfactory creation process.

At its essence, every fragrance is a delicate interplay of layers — captivating top notes, evolving heart notes, and lingering base notes. “A nice perfume is a perfume that has balance and harmony”.  The goal is to ensure all components—whether fresh citrus, floral bouquets, or deep musky tones—work together to create an evolving and dynamic sensory experience.  What stood out most in Josephine’s process was her ability to navigate contradictions: balancing familiarity with novelty, and stability with evolution. “Vanilla adds warmth, sweetness, but depending on its use, it can either serve as a classic foundation or bring contrast,” she explained. Meanwhile, advances in chemistry have introduced new synthetic molecules that bring entirely novel scents to olfactive compositions, disrupting and redefining traditional blends. These tensions make a fragrance not only memorable but timeless.  It’s this delicate harmony—between stability and innovation—that brands must also master to achieve long-term relevance while sparking curiosity.

Josephine’s journey into the world of fragrance began at one of France’s most prestigious perfumery schools in Versailles, founded by Guerlain in the 1970s. There, she immersed herself in the rigorous science of chemistry, learned to deconstruct and analyze smells, and mastered the intricate art of describing them. This foundation of technical precision and creativity has since guided her in crafting fragrances for global markets, blending cultural insight with artistic mastery to create scents that resonate with the unique identities of the regions where they are experienced.

Through this wonderful conversation, I learned scent is far more than just a sensory pleasure—it’s a cultural artifact, an emotional bridge, and a powerful tool for storytelling. Deeply tied to who we are and the times we live in, fragrance reflects history while adapting its expression to the times. Seeing the world through scent became a visceral history lesson—one that captures the emotional pulse of an era. As Josephine put it, “Fragrance can illustrate an era or be a reaction to it, but it also pushes boundaries by addressing what we don’t yet realize we’re missing.” This duality—reflecting and anticipating cultural desires—reinforces the parallel for building brands: brands must stay grounded in their identity while adapting to cultural shifts with bold, strategic evolution.

Scent as a Mirror of Culture

Fragrance, like a brand, doesn’t exist in isolation. Its success is shaped by the cultural, social, and economic contexts in which it is experienced. As Josephine put it, “Every country smells differently.” The success of a fragrance hinges on understanding these nuances and tailoring it to resonate authentically within its environment. “In China, watery florals like peony resonate. In the U.S., it’s all about ‘clean’ fragrances—the white T-shirt effect. Meanwhile, the Middle East embraces rich, heavy scents like oud and rose, reflecting their traditions of burning incense and celebrating opulence.”

These cultural distinctions are deeply rooted in historical and socio-economic contexts:

• China: In China, there is a strong affinity for subtle, fresh florals, rooted in traditional fragrance culture where scents like osmanthus and jasmine symbolized elegance and refinement. These lighter fragrances align with cultural ideals of youthfulness, innocence, and understated sophistication, contrasting with the heavier scents often preferred in Western markets. This preference explains the success of perfumes like Hermès’ Osmanthe Yunnan and Dominique Ropion’s Portrait of a Lady, which reflect the region’s appreciation for delicate and graceful compositions.
• Middle East: The Middle East’s passion for oud and rose has origins in its rich history of perfumery, where fragrance was a symbol of hospitality, spirituality, and wealth. These scents often evoke warmth and intensity, mirroring the sensory richness of the region. Yet, they also embody a paradox: heavy, opulent perfumes thrive in climates that might logically favor lighter scents. This juxtaposition highlights a deep cultural appreciation for tradition and a sensory celebration that transcends practicality.
• United States: The American obsession with ‘clean’ fragrances, such as those evoking freshly laundered linens or soap, reflects cultural ideals of purity and hygiene. Emerging during the post-WWII boom, these scents became synonymous with the optimistic, sanitized suburban dream. Yet, the minimalist cleanliness also counters the chaotic, fast-paced modern lifestyle, offering a moment of grounding and clarity in an otherwise cluttered cultural landscape.

Having said that, it’s no surprise that even in the perfume world there are the global unicorns that seem to transcend borders, including my own preferred scent, Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle—a consistent top seller across most markets. As Jazzria Harris describes, it opens with citrusy top notes of bergamot and orange, then evolves into heart notes of soft floral notes of rose and jasmine before settling into a base of cosy vanilla and vetiver - offering an aspirational yet familiar experience globally. “When crafting a globally resonant perfume, you try to include facets that resonate with each region—like clean notes for the U.S. and floral freshness for China—while testing along the way,” Josephine shared. Which, if I draw parallels to the world’s most recognized global brand leaders - Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle mastery mirrors how timeless brands adapt to local nuances without compromising their foundational story.

Anticipating Cultural Shifts Through Scent

“Fragrance is deeply tied to memory,” Josephine shared. “It reflects the times we live in.” Take the 1980s in France, for example: “It was a time when there was political stability, people were out partying. Women wanted to feel more feminine, more carefree. So they wore fragrances that were heavy and opulent - woody, oriental, vanilla notes - not fresh at all. Bold scents like Hypnotic Poison by Dior or YSL’s Opium were best sellers during this era of prosperity and freedom, and those heavy, sensual fragrances reflected that”.

This connection between socio-economic trends and scent preferences is a recurring theme in fragrance history. But what’s fascinating is how fragrances don’t just respond to cultural moments—they also anticipate and play with contradictions, oscillating between extremes. In times of prosperity, indulgent fragrances offer a sense of celebration. During crises, lighter scents bring a reassuring sense of clarity, reassurance, and renewal.

• The 1980s: Economic growth fueled opulence, with fragrances like Poison and Coco Chanel dominating the market. These perfumes, rich with notes of exotic spices, intoxicating florals, and warm, woody undertones, symbolized power and ambition. Their extravagance, captured in bold scents of vanilla, amber, and sandalwood, sharply contrasted with the simplicity of everyday life for many consumers.
• The 1990s: Minimalist, clean scents like CK One, with its crisp notes of green tea and lily of the valley, reflected a collective desire for simplicity and hygiene during the HIV/AIDS epidemic. Yet, these scents also subtly offered a sense of rebellion through their androgynous appeal.
• The COVID-19 Pandemic: Green, fresh, and medicinal scents like Marc Jacobs Perfec and Chanel’s Chance Eau Tendret, with its invigorating blend of grapefruit, pear, and lavender, spoke to a craving for renewal. However, achieving these “natural-like” fragrances often involved synthetic ingredients and carefully crafted processes—highlighting the challenge of creating a sense of stability and authenticity during a time of widespread uncertainty.

“Perfume is always a reaction to its time,” Josephine emphasized. “It mirrors what society craves—whether it’s escapism, stability, or a connection to nature. But it also pushes boundaries by addressing what we don’t yet realize we’re missing.”  This insight captures the essence of building marketing engines: responding to the present while anticipating and bridging the contradictions that will define future needs.

This interplay between familiarity and intrigue offers a powerful lesson: the most resonant creations—whether fragrances or brands—thrive not by merely reflecting societal shifts, but by anticipating contradictions and crafting a harmonious balance. It’s not just about meeting consumer needs in the present; it’s about understanding the underlying tensions that shape desires and finding ways to surprise, delight, and endure.

Reflecting on Josephine’s insights, I was reminded of the classic PESTLE framework—analyzing external environments through Political, Economic, Social, Technological, Legal, and Environmental lenses. While this framework remains a staple of strategic thinking, fragrance creation reveals an equally nuanced process for navigating complexity. It inspired a reimagined approach: a framework for creating brands that are unique, timeless but also culturally adaptable transcending cultural borders.

A Framework for Building Timeless, Adaptable Brands

Just as every great scent balances cultural, social, and economic contexts with a harmonious interplay of notes, a truly timeless brand must align foundational brand identity with adaptable marketing tactics that evolve to meet changing contexts.

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Creating the Scent - Brand:

1. Fragrance Characteristics (Product Differentiation): How do sensory or product attributes resonate with cultural or generational values?

• Application: Design offerings that align with local or generational preferences to strengthen emotional resonance.

• Example: Oud remains a defining feature in the Middle East due to its cultural and spiritual significance.

2. Narrative and Identity: What story does your product enable consumers to tell about themselves?

• Application: Build campaigns around narratives that empower consumers to express identity or aspiration.

• Example: Chanel No. 5’s timeless sophistication allows consumers to associate themselves with elegance and confidence.

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Adaptable Marketing Tactics:

1. Cultural Influence: What cultural narratives or traditions shape the market?

• Application: Investigate how your brand’s messaging aligns with local traditions to establish authenticity.

• Example: China's traditional preference for light florals reflects its cultural connection to nature and harmony, offering brands a chance to resonate through subtlety and refinement.

2. Social Trends: What societal shifts are driving identity and behavior?

• Application: Tap into emerging movements or collective aspirations to remain relevant.

• Example: Minimalist scents like CK One thrived during the 1990s, reflecting a societal craving for simplicity and gender-neutral ideals.

3. Economic Context: How do economic realities influence spending and preferences?

• Application: Position products to reflect accessibility or luxury appeal in response to market conditions.

• Example: During the COVID-19 pandemic, fresh, green fragrances offered a sense of renewal and stability.

4. Localization Strategy: How can your marketing engine adapt to the nuances of each market?

• Application: Beyond messaging, tailor the entire customer journey to local preferences.

• Example: Fragrances marketed as luxurious in the West are often reframed with subtlety and freshness for the Chinese market.

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This framework highlights the importance of balancing the enduring integrity of a brand’s identity with the flexibility to adapt across cultural, social, and economic dimensions. It is this balance that allows brands to scale sustainably while remaining deeply relevant and timeless.

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In short...

Fragrance creation, at its core, is about creating harmonious layers by navigating contradictions: balancing stability with evolution, familiarity with novelty, and context with aspiration. A great fragrance can’t simply respond to trends—it bridges cultural nuances with universal appeal, aligns with immediate needs while sparking curiosity for what’s next, and remains rooted in its core identity while adapting to diverse contexts. As Josephine highlighted, during moments of cultural or economic stability, you see a trend of bold and indulgent fragrances grow in popularity, reflecting celebration and prosperity. Conversely, in times of uncertainty, lighter, more reassuring scents offer comfort and clarity. Yet even within these shifts, the most successful fragrances—and brands—find ways to surprise, offering something unexpected that elevates the experience.

This formula to layer captivating, timely top notes, paired with the lingering cultural, social and economical heart notes underpinned by a brand’s core base identity can create timeless, unique and culturally transcendent brands. As business leaders and marketers our success lies in crafting strategies that resonate deeply in the moment but also evolve, creating lasting impact. By learning to play within these contradictions, brands can achieve relevance, resonance, and sustainable growth in a constantly changing world.